Trekking Mount Agung: Sunrise Hiking to the Island Summit

Mount Agung towers over the rest of the island of Bali. Its peak sits at over 3000 metres above sea level and offers 360 degree views of the entire island like that from an international flight window. Trekking Mount Agung is a multi day experience, and is not for the faint of heart or for anyone not physically and mentally prepared.

I hiked to the summit of Mount Agung in April of 2023, sleeping near the summit and climbing the last stretch in the dark of the night to witness the sunrise over the island of Bali. This was one of the most incredible hikes I have ever done, and was by far the best activity I did during my time in Bali. In this article I will detail everything I did to organise this breathtaking activity, what it entailed, how much you can expect to pay and how to plan it yourself.

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Interactive Trail Map

Mount Agung

Mount Agung is the highest peak on the island of Bali, topping out at whopping 3031 metres. It holds much religious and spiritual significance in the religion of Hinduism and to the Balinese people. They believe Mount Agung is a replica of Mount Meru, the central axis of the universe and the most important temple on Bali, Pura Besakih, is high on the slopes of Gunung Agung.

Note: Mount Agung is an active volcano, with its most recent eruption being in 2018. Before planning this hike you should check the latest seismic activity reports here.

There are 2 routes available to summit the volcano, and most tour operators will let you choose which one you want to take. One trail is from the South. This route leaves from Pura Pasar Agung and ends at the crater rim. The second route is from the West and leaves from Pura Besakih (start point is Pura Pengubengan) and goes to the summit of the volcano.

The Pura Pasar Agung Trail

This route takes around 5 hours to climb depending on speed and fitness. It starts at 1700 metres above sea level and is generally regarded as the easier route. Most people opt for this route to complete the trek in a single day, setting off at around 2am to arrive at the summit at 6am. This route doesn’t take you to the true summit, but rather the crater rim at around 2800 metres, but the views are just as spectacular. If you are short of time and or money, this can be the better option as you won’t have to pay for camping on the mountain, and can be back down at the mountain base for lunch time the same day.

The Pura Besakih Trail

This route takes around 6-8 hours to reach the summit. We opted to camp at around 2800 metres, hiking to the camp the day before, and woke up at 4am to hike the final 2 hours to the summit for sunrise. 

The trek is more difficult than the Pura Pasar trail, but takes you to the true summit, and the highest point on the island. This is a hard climb and you need to be both physically and mentally prepared. When you finally reach the top you should be one of the few people there and have the breathtaking views mostly to yourself.

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Hiring a guide

Whilst you can hike Mount Agung without a guide, it is not recommended. Issues can arise, and the trail at times can be hard to follow. Getting into issues out of phone signal range can be very dangerous and it is not advised to undertake this trek without the proper guidance and experience of someone that has done it before. We heard from our guide that some tourists have tried to trek themselves, and been caught out in bad weather and had to call for rescue. Some had even lost their lives taking the wrong route and falling down cliff faces.

We found our guide Raja Rimba Adventures on Instagram (@rajarimba_adventures), and he made our trek as smooth and easy as possible, including pickup and dropoff from anywhere on Bali before and after the trek. He also had porters that went ahead and set up the tent and camp for us, and provided all our hot drinks and meals for the duration of the hike.

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Day 1 – Hiking to Basecamp

Our day began in the town of Ubud where we had been spending a few days. Vishnu, our guide, organised for us to be picked up at 9am and driven to the start of the hike. The drive took about 1.5 hours and we arrived at a supermarket near the base of the mountain to pick up supplies before starting the hike. After another 30 minute drive to the start point, at 1200 metres, we had our breakfast of coffee and fresh fruit and started the hike.

The first part of the hike was supposed to take around 4-5 hours but we managed to complete it in around 3 including a stop for lunch. This part of the hike started in thick jungle and was very steep, covering about 5 km of distance and around 1100 metres of vertical elevation.

Lunch

Whilst we were stopped for lunch at 1800 metres one of the porters came running down the hill. He was barefooted and smoking a cigarette, careening down the hill at breakneck speed! Vishnu told us the porters sometimes go up and down twice in the morning, within a few hours. They can carry upwards of 20 kilos of equipment on their backs. The fitness of these guys is really something to behold! We had a spot of rain after lunch which made the rest of the trekking quite precarious, but taking it slow and being sure footed we made it to the basecamp without injury or issue. 

Basecamp

When arriving at basecamp, a cool 2400 metres above sea level, we were met by the rest of the crew and porters that practically ran up the mountain ahead of us to set up the tents. Our guide had organised a tent for the 3 of us, as well as sleeping bags, roll mats and some camp stools and a table. We had some sweet Balinese tea, and a hot meal of spicy tempeh and rice, and soaked in the views of Bali from up in the clouds. As the day went on the cloud cover moved down and the view of Bali opened up before us.

The rest of the day was spent trekking to a small waterfall to take fresh drinking water, and sitting around a fire to keep warm as the sun went down. We had the most incredible view of the stars and sat around telling travelling tales until finally going to bed around 10pm, ready to wake up at 4am for the final part of the trek. 

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Day 1.5 – Waking up to Summit the Peak of Mount Agung

After a somewhat restless and uncomfortable night’s sleep, mainly due to being 6 foot 2 inches (1.9m) and not fitting into the Asian sized sleeping bag properly, we awoke at 4am to summit the peak. We had a quick breakfast of a banana, boiled egg and coffee / tea, then set off for the summit in the darkness. Armed only with a trekking pole and head lamp, this part of the trek was quite slow going. After the first 30 minutes the trees gave way to volcanic gravel as we began walking up the exposed ridge towards the peak. At this point the wind and temperature became more extreme, and I was glad to be wearing gloves. Despite the jungle climate almost year round on the island, above 2500 metres the temperature can be close to 0, especially in the dark.

The Summit

Around 5am we made it to the summit and sat down to wait for the sunrise. At this point we were only one of three groups at the summit so had the place practically to ourselves. We huddled together for warmth and at around 5:30 the sun began to rise.

To the east we saw the sun rise behind the peak of Mount Rinjani on the neighbouring island of Lombok 100km away. This really gives you an idea of the scale of these volcanoes that you can see this distance from the top. Clouds down at sea level began to dissipate as the sun got higher in the sky and by 6am we could see the entirety of Bali 360 degrees below us. We spent 30 minutes taking photos and enjoying the view as more and more trekkers reached the top, before setting off back down.

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Day 2 – The Descent

We were back at the camp by 7am after descending from the summit. In my opinion the way down is as hard or harder than the way up. The loose gravel and steep angle of the mountain means it’s very easy to lose your footing and slide, so going very slowly and taking your time is paramount to ensuring you avoid injury. Some of the guides practically run down the slope, which may even be a safer option if you have the confidence and footwear to try.

Second Breakfast

Arriving at camp we had a second larger breakfast and more coffee / tea, and rested for a few hours. I managed to sleep for a couple hours in the tent as others in the group sat and read or enjoyed the scenery some more. By noon we began the final descent.

This final part of the trek was long, slippery and slow. It rained for the duration of the way down and this made the floor extremely slippy. Combined with the steep angle of the slopes and loose ground, it was very treacherous. By the final 30 minutes we had all had enough; exhausted, wet and sore, but we made it back to the start of the trail after 1.5 hours total. The descent was hard, but the entire trek had been worth it and was easily the best thing we had done during our time on the island. After another coffee and hot meal, we said goodbye to Vishnu, our guide, and got into the car to be taken to our next location.

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What to bring and prepare

This trek is not a walk in the park, and whilst your guide will provide most of the essentials, I recommend you come prepared with the following:

• Rain jacket – Weather can change quickly on the mountain and we were caught in the rain both on the ascent and descent. It can even rain during the “dry” season in Bali. 
• Warm clothes – Above 2000 metres it can be cold, especially at night. I recommend bringing a hoodie or fleece to layer up with if you need.
• Suitable shoes – Either hiking boots / shoes, or at least trail running shoes with good grip. Trainers or sandals are not suitable for the trek.
• Comfortable backpack – A proper hiking backpack is preferable, with chest and waist straps for support. You wont need to carry much with you as its only 2 days but it will help if your bag is comfortable.
• Food and snacks – Your guide will most likely provide meals and hot drinks as ours did, but some extra snacks and sugary treats will give you the boost of morale and blood sugar you need to push through to the summit.
• Isotonic drinks – A Powerade or the popular in Asia, Pocari Sweat to refuel your muscles during the trek.
• Sleeping bag / Sleeping mat (optional)  – Our guide provided a basic roll mat and sleeping bag for us. Being 6 foot 2 inches (1.9m), I was way oversized for the sleeping bag and struggled to get a good night’s sleep on the mountain. The mat too was not the most comfortable. If you are into hiking and own an inflatable sleeping mat, and / or your own sleeping bag, and have the space in your luggage to bring it with you to Bali, I recommend it. This however is a luxury and completely optional.

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Safety, Concerns and Useful Information

• Mount Agung is an active volcano, and should be treated as such. Check seismic activity reports before planning this here.
• The best time to visit Bali is between April and October, as this is the dry season. Doing this hike in the wet season may be possible but cloud cover and rain will affect your enjoyment of it.
• Hire a guide! Whilst technically you can do this hike self-guided, it is not recommended. Guides trek this mountain daily and know it inside out. Accidents happen on the mountain and you want to minimise any risk to yourselves and others.
• Bring sunscreen and apply liberally, as it can be hard to tell at altitude when you’re getting sunburn.
• Travel insurance is a must for any extreme activities abroad, especially in south east asia. Although problems rarely arise, you want to be covered in the case that they do. We use SafteyWing and recommend it for anyone travelling around the world.
• When spending money abroad we use the WISE international debit card. You can withdraw up to 200 euros in cash per month free of charge. After that, you only pay a very low withdrawal fee.
• If you don’t have your accommodation booked for your next destination, best to do so to ensure you can have a hot shower and relax after the trek. Best to book before you arrive to avoid any issues!

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Final Thoughts

For me this was a bucket list item for my trip to Bali, and was one of the best experiences I had during my entire 9 month trip around South East Asia. Whilst not for the faint hearted or not physically active, this is THE best trek in Bali, and one I will remember for the rest of my life. I highly recommend you do it also!

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