Laos is the country in Southeast Asia that has remained most in our hearts of all. We are certainly biased, as our love for each other began here 😁 but Laos, relatively less touristy than its neighbours Thailand and Vietnam, really has so much to offer. With its lush mountains, remote villages and winding rivers in the north, it’s wonderful French-style towns, the incredible motorbike loops in the centre, and it’s beautiful, relaxing islands in the south.
When we arrived in Laos, we knew nothing about it, and perhaps this slight anonymity is what made the experience a wonderful surprise. The locals, the breathtaking landscapes and the adventures in the rural villages were incomparable.
Below our itinerary for spending one month in Laos! Our itinerary crosses the entire country from north to south. Many travellers only visit northern Laos, either because of time constraints or to continue their itinerary in Thailand or Vietnam. In our opinion, southern Laos, especially the centre, is very special and definitely worth seeing. We hope to convince you with this guide! If you don’t have enough time, however, and/or would also like to visit other countries in South-East Asia, you can get inspired by this itinerary and then tailor it for yourself.
In Laos, you will find many options for getting around the country, including trains, buses/minivans and planes. We always preferred to travel by train and bus/minivan for economic and ecological reasons, and because we were lucky enough to have plenty of time. We still recommend trying to take the local buses at least once, to get a taste of what Lao culture is like and see how the locals live and get around.
When booking train and bus tickets abroad, we always use 12go.asia. You can check timetables and prices online and it’s often cheaper than booking in person! Check our 12go.asia here.
Getting to Laos
There are 2 ways to get to Laos: overland through customs in one of the neighbouring states, or by flying into Vientiane, the capital of Laos.
The Slow Boat from Thailand
If you are a backpacker and are visiting more than one country in South-East Asia, you will probably arrive in Laos by land. The possibilities are to cross customs to the north via Thailand or Vietnam, or from the south via Cambodia. We arrived in Laos via Thailand, taking the famous ‘slow boat’ to Huay Xai, arriving from Thailand’s Chiang Khong. The experience was incredible! If you want to know more about the slow boat, check out our article here.
By Land
From Cambodia you can cross the border from the south, and you will find yourself almost directly at the 4000 Islands. If this is the case, you can follow our route in reverse.
If you cross the border into northern Vietnam, you will probably come from Dien Bien Phu after having been to beautiful Sapa or Hanoi, and arrive at Muang Khua in Laos. We did not personally take this route, but we saw that from there you can travel along the Nam Ou River, navigating to Muang Ngoi and then Nong Khiaw. You will find information on these two rural villages later in the guidebook, with information on what to do and see. The scenery is truly surreal and breathtaking. From there you can then take the minivan to Luang Prabang and continue on our itinerary without any problems.
By Air
The only international airport in Laos is in the capital Vientiane. If you land directly here, you can choose how you want to tackle the tour of Laos. You can head north and then head back south if you have time, or depending on your needs, after taking a look at our guidebook, decide which of the two parts suits you best.
Itinerary
Interactive Map
1. Luang Prabang
Time: 3-4 days
Our itinerary begins in the wonderful town of Luang Prabang. Luang Prabang is a very pretty French-style town in northern Laos, and along with Pai in Thailand, is undoubtedly our favourite town in all of Southeast Asia. (click here if you are curious to know more about Pai!). If you like mountainous and hilly landscapes, and the smell of coffee and pan au chocolat in the morning, this town is for you. Luang Prabang is a picture-postcard city, with beautiful views of the hills and the river running through it. You can enjoy beautiful sunsets, explore the night market with lots of delicious local food, and go hiking in the surrounding nature. Here is our list of things not to miss during your stay in Luang Prabang:
Things not to miss
Night market
Luang Prabang’s night market is one of our absolute favourite in all of Asia! Located in a small square in the centre of the town, it has many stalls with a variety of things to eat and drink in Laotian and Thai style.
Phousi Hill at sunset
We were lucky enough to admire one of the most spectacular, fiery red sunsets from the top of this hill where there is a lovely temple. The walk is only 20 minutes and is easily accessible from the city centre. The visit costs only 20 thousand kip, which is the equivalent of a little more than one euro. Even during the day, the climb is still worth it, as one can observe the surrounding hills and get an excellent, romantic view of the city from above.
Kuang Si Waterfall
Not to be repetitive, but this is probably the most beautiful waterfall we have seen in all of Asia! It consists of the spectacular main fountain, and many pools below with incredible crystal blue water, where you can swim. The cost is only about 1 euro for the whole day, and it is absolutely worth it, entering here is like entering the garden of the gods!
Try at least one French boulangerie
We’re the first to want to try and stick to local food wherever we go in the world, but we can hardly say no to cappuccino and croissants when it’s offered by such high-class boulangeries! Try at least one, there are many beautiful ones, even with a river view.
2. Nong Khiaw and Muang Ngoy
Time: 3-4 days
Nong Khiaw and especially Muang Ngoy, are two really rural villages in northern Laos. At the time we went there was little tourism, with few bars and restaurants open, it was just us and nature. We slowed down the pace of travel and enjoyed the slow lifestyle of the place. Highly recommended for those who want to do some nature trekking and some hiking in the more typical villages of northern Laos. Here is our list of things not to miss during your stay in Nong Khiaw:
Things not to miss
Trekking to the Nong Khiaw viewpoint
This is a classic trek from the centre of Nong Khiaw to one of the highest viewpoints in the place. In total, the time to reach the top is about an hour and a half. It is recommended to go either at sunset or sunrise to enjoy the breathtaking view of the valley and river in beautiful light. You can then take a photo with the very iconic Lao flag on top of a rock.
Boat trip to Muang Ngoy, with or without an overnight stay
Muang Ngoy is a beautiful, tiny village that can be reached from Nong Khiaw by sailing down the river in a small boat. There are organised tours that can take you here, or individual boat services, in case you want to experience sleeping independently in the area, or in case you want to go further into the valley and explore other quiet local villages (consider cautiously that electricity and hot water are not amenities you will find in these remote places!).
Phanoi viewpoint and Tad Mook waterfall
Phanoi Viewpoint and Tad Mook Waterfall are two pleasant excursions that you can take once you arrive in Muang Ngoy. We had booked a tour that for the equivalent of €16 took us to explore both the village and these two natural beauties. We also experienced a 40-minute kayak ride on the way back – truly magical! Highly recommended. In the centre of Nong Khiaw you will find many offices where you can book these activities should you be interested.
3. Vang Vieng
Time: 2-3 days
Vang Vieng is a famous town in northern Laos, best known among backpackers for its non-stop parties and ‘tipsy tubing’. As much as this side of Vang Vieng is actually true, we can also highly recommend it for the surrounding nature! Vang Vieng offers the most beautiful views of its towering granite mountains, and beautiful natural turquoise water pools in various spots just outside the centre. Here is our list of things not to miss during your stay in Vang Vieng:
Things not to miss
Trekking to Nam Xay viewpoint
Trekking to Nam Xay viewpoint is a great way to get a 360-degree view of the entire valley and nature surrounding Vang Vieng. From here, you can admire the surrounding granite monoliths, and if you’re lucky, you may spot some hot-air balloons flying over to give tourists a scenic tour. The trek takes an hour or so in total, and you can reach the start of the walk by conveniently hiring a scooter from the centre (or taking a taxi). The road leading to the start of the trek is a beautiful fire-red road that we recommend for those who like moped rides!
Blue Lagoons (we favoured number 3!)
In Vang Vieng there are a total of 3 beautiful blue lagoons, where for a total cost of only 20 thousand kips (equivalent to just over a euro) you can enter, swim and sunbathe all day long. We chose to enjoy lagoon number 3 because we read online that it was less crowded than the others. There is also a fun swing on site from which you can dive, and you can hike to a nearby cave with a fascinating underground lake (very nice but dark, not equipped, so bring torches). At the lagoon, there is a restaurant where you can eat for very fair prices. You can reach the lagoon by renting a moped from the centre (or taking a taxi).
If you are a backpacker: at least one night of nightlife and tipsy tubing!
As mentioned in the introduction, Vang Vieng is the town par excellence in Laos for nightlife entertainment. There are plenty of bars in Vang Vieng where you can go out at night, and it is worth trying ‘tipsy tubing’, the descent down the river in inflatable boats in groups, stopping at various bars along the river for drinks. Also recommended for those who don’t want to drink, so they can make friends with the other guys taking part and enjoy the view of the mountains (if you decide to drink, do it responsibly, over the years there have been many deaths due to alcohol. You are still in a river!).
4. Vientiane
Time: 2 days maximum, passing through
We liked Vientiane, the capital of Laos, less than the rest of the things to see in Laos, so we recommend staying there just to stop over before proceeding with the itinerary. Here is our list of things to do during your stay in Vientiane:
Things not to miss
Cope visitor centre
The Cope visitor centre is a heart-breaking must-see if you are in Vientiane, and definitely worth a visit. COPE is a non-profit organisation that provides prosthetic limbs, mobility assistance and rehabilitation for people in Laos who cannot afford it and who were affected by unexploded ordnance during the ‘operation barrel roll’ by the United States of America during World War II, with a total of 260 million bombs dropped in Laos, making it the most bombed nation in history.
The sacred shrine of Pha That Luang
This is an important landmark in Laos. This fascinating gilded monument is a stupa reliquary, which is a special building popular in Buddhism to house sacred relics. You will also find other monuments and a gold reclining Buddha statue on site. The entrance fee is about one euro, and the best way to get there, being 4 km away from the centre, is by tuk-tuk or local taxi.
Night market and river walk
Vientiane’s night market is beautiful, with lots of local food choices and plenty of shops around to browse through. Also enjoyable is the evening walk along the eastern bank of the iconic Mekong River, with views of the lights of Thailand on the opposite bank.
5. Thakhek
Time: 4-5 days
Thakhek is a pretty little town on the banks of the Mekong River, overlooking neighbouring Thailand. It is an excellent stop before setting off on the Thakhek loop: a set of breathtaking roads in central Laos, to be travelled by motorbike or scooter.
Things not to miss
Thakhek motorbike loop
This 450km loop can be completed in 3-4 days (or longer if you have time and want to see and experience everything). four days of driving with the wind in your hair, flanked by towering limestone cliffs with occasional stops to swim in natural lagoons or to delve into some of the most impressive cave complexes to be found anywhere in Asia (particularly Konglor). If you are interested in learning more about the Thakhek loop, read our online guide!
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Thakhek night market and riverbank promenade
Thakhek offers one of the cheapest night markets we have been to in all of South East Asia! Not to mention that we became regulars for all our tasty dinners, punctually ending with a nice relaxing walk along the river, enjoying the inevitable coconut smoothie.
6. Pakse
Time: 3-4 days
Pakse, like Thakhek, is another pretty town on the banks of the Mekong River, overlooking neighbouring Thailand. It is an excellent stop before setting off on the Pakse loop: a wonderful ride through southern Laos, which can be done by motorbike or scooter.
Things not to miss
Bolaven plateau loop / Pakse loop by motorbike
The Pakse loop, also known as the Bolaven Plateau loop, starts from Pakse. The Bolaven Plateau is a mountainous region in southern Laos full of breathtaking waterfalls, local villages and coffee plantations. If you are a coffee lover and are interested in learning more about the Pakse loop, read our online guide!
Pakse river front
As already mentioned, Pakse offers a very pleasant walk along the river, especially to be enjoyed at sunset time and in the evening when the temperatures drop. We went the evening before leaving for the 4 Thousand Islands and found many locals watching the sunset with us, or taking a run before dinner.
7. 4000 Islands, Don Det
Time: 4 days
The 4000 Islands, translated 4 thousand islands, are the definition of tranquillity and peace. This stop was the perfect end to rest after our eventful tour of Laos between moped rides, hiking and trekking. The 4 Thousand islands can be reached by taking a minibus from Pakse, and then a boat that will take you to the main island, Don Det.
Things not to miss
Island bike tour
This is the main activity we recommend you do on the 4 Thousand islands. The daily cost is really low, only around 15 thousand kip (less than one euro) and will give you the chance to fully explore the island of Don Det and the neighbouring island of Don Khon, which is connected by a small bridge. On Don Khon you will have the chance to explore the surrounding nature and the Li Phi Somphamit waterfall for only 30 thousand kip (about 2 euro).
Relaxation relaxation
There will be many tour operators who will want you to do activities at the 4 Thousand Islands, including a supposed visit to see the dolphins. Don’t believe us, nobody has spotted dolphins in this area for years unfortunately. We really recommend enjoying the peace of this place just by sipping drinks along the river, reading a good book, and recharging your batteries for the next steps of your trip.
This is the tour we took in Laos, I hope you enjoy it! From here, you are now ready to continue your journey to the Cambodian border or return to Thailand on one of the many buses offered by the local tourist offices of the 4 Thousand Islands.
If you have any suggestions or comments, don’t hesitate to let us know by leaving a comment!
Planning a trip to Laos? Check out our Ultimate Laos travel guide for more information. This guide covers everything you need to know from places and attractions, saving money and staying safe.
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