Grahan trek from Kasol: A guide reaching Grahan village

This guide is for the popular trekking route from the town of Kasol, to the remote hilltop village of Grahan. Kasol is a remote town high up in the Indian Himalayas, in the province of Himachal Pradesh. Not only is this town a hotspot for psy-trance parties and electronic music festivals, it also offers some of the most beautiful mountain scenery and hikes you will find anywhere on the planet! Read on for our guide on how to complete the Grahan trek.

We spent 2 weeks in Kasol in May of 2023, attending these music parties and spending the rest of the time hiking and exploring remote Himalayan villages! Another one of these remote village hikes is Rasol, read our article about that here.

Where is Grahan?

Grahan is a remote and isolated town, high up in the Himalayas of Himachal Pradesh in India. Getting to Grahan is only possible by foot, and hiking there takes the best part of half a day. It is situated south of Kasol, at an elevation of around 2300 metres, or 7700 feet above sea level, offering breathtaking views of the snow capped mountains of the Himalayas. It is the last town people visit before continuing on to the popular Sar Pass, part of a multi day trek in the area. 

Situated on the edge of the Kanawar wildlife sanctuary, this remote town is entirely self-sufficient, with supplies only being brought from Kasol once a day by foot, or by donkey. With power only being supplied intermittently by generators, and zero phone reception, Grahan is a place where you can really escape the hustle and bustle of daily life.

How to get to Kasol

Via New Delhi / Chandigarh

There are over a dozen direct buses to and from the capital of New Delhi every day. These buses are mostly overnight sleeper buses, and take around 12-14 hours in total to travel the 500 kilometre route, stopping at the city of Chandigarh on the way. Tickets are available for purchase online, and often sell out days in advance. Make sure you book in advance if you intend to use this option. You can check bus ticket prices to and from Kasol via Delhi here.

Via Local Bus

If, like us, you are exploring the surrounding area in towns such as Shimla, or Manali, you can utilise the local bus companies to travel around Himachal Pradesh. From Manali or Shimla, you need to take a local bus first to Bhuntar. From Bhuntar there are local buses every 30 minutes or so that go directly to Kasol. Buses leave from the Bhuntar Bus Stand, and travel up into the Parvati Valley, stopping at Kasol and other towns on the way. If you prefer AC and a more comfortable ride, you can book buses from Manali, Shimla or Bhuntar to Kasol on 12go.asia here.

The Grahan trek from Kasol

The trail to Grahan starts from the centre of Kasol town. You follow Grahan Street on google maps, passing the goSTOPS Kasol hostel at the edge of town. At this point the trail becomes a rough stone path just wide enough for one car. From here onwards the only vehicles on the path will be 4x4s shuttling people to the start of the main ascent to Grahan at the end of the road. I chose to hike this first part on foot, which is about 5 kilometres long. It is relatively flat and easy going, through temperate woodland flanked by a small river. You will pass a few campsites and remote accommodations before finally arriving at the base of the main ascent after about 1 hour.

Once you reach the end of this road, you will find a few small shack style cafes selling snacks and drinks. I took the opportunity to purchase a pack of biscuits and drink a nice hot chai before starting the ascent proper. This area is also the point where the 4x4s carrying supplies and people can’t go any further. All supplies for Grahan village are carried up from this point by porters or donkeys. Seeing the porters carry multiple gas canisters up the mountain on their backs really is something that has to be seen to be believed. The people that make this trek multiple times a day must be in incredible physical shape!

The final ascent

From this point you start the main ascent to Grahan. This final 2 kilometres of distance includes more than 75% of the vertical ascent, taking you up about 500 metres vertically. The trail is mostly rocky and very steep, so slow and steady progress is key here. You will pass some farmers’ tents on the way, past fields of crops and livestock. After about an hour or two, depending on your fitness, you will begin to see the buildings of Grahan. Once the path beneath you becomes paved, you’ve arrived at Grahan village.

What to do in Grahan village?

Grahan village is a mixture of local houses, accommodations and a few restaurants. There are a multitude of accommodations available, of varying quality levels. 

I stopped for a late lunch at Old Krishna Cafe on my way up into Grahan, and the food was delicious. I ordered the veg thali, and whilst it took almost 45 minutes to arrive at the table, it was worth the wait. The owner told me all the food is made from scratch hence the long waiting times. The clientele were a mixture of travellers from different parts of the globe, all enjoying the free wifi offered here to reconnect with the outside world.

Note: When I visited, Old Krishna Cafe was the only place in town with reliable and constant wifi connection. So if you have to get in touch with friends and family when you reach Grahan, this is the place to do so.

I stayed on the far south side of Grahan in The Space Station, right on the edge of the national park. They had 2 rooms total when I visited, and both were available. I paid 1000 rupees per night, roughly 10 euros, for a spacious double room with ample blankets and a private bathroom. The homestay was run by some ex-tech workers from Bangalore that moved up here to escape the city life. The guys really made me feel welcome and at home, and I can’t recommend the place enough. After the sun went down we lit a bonfire, and watched the stars and satellites moving overhead until the early hours of the morning.

Hiking to Grahan Waterfalls

The next morning I had breakfast and coffee with the owners, before setting off further into the national park to take a swim in the local waterfalls. The waterfalls are about a 1.5 kilometre walk out of town, along a relatively flat trail. I didn’t see another person the entire 3 hours I was hiking to and from the waterfalls; this place is really really remote! After a refreshing morning dip in the glacial melt water, it was a quick 30 minute walk back to Grahan for a second coffee before hiking back to Kasol.

Getting back to Kasol

Once you’ve explored all that Grahan has to offer, it’s time to begin the descent back down towards Kasol. This is much easier going than going in the other direction up the mountain. Expect to spend around 30 minutes reaching the 4×4 track, then another hour or so to get back to Kasol.

Once back it’s time for a hot chai and some delicious steamy momos to restore some lost calories from the hike. I frequented Usha Dhaba on Grahan Street many times during my stay in Kasol. They offer big plates of momos, both veg and non-veg for around 100 rupees, roughly 1 euro. Served with a spicy sauce and sour cream, they really are tasty.

Accommodation in Kasol

After replenishing your energy reserves, it’s time for a hot shower and a rest. Kasol has accommodation for all budgets. For budget travellers, the goSTOPS Hostel Kasol is modern, clean and most of all cheap! If you are travelling as a couple on a budget, we recommend the recently opened Chander Homestay. It offers twin rooms for around 1500-2000 rupees or 15-20 euros per night. And for those looking for some Himalayan luxury, there is the Royal Castle Hotel. This is one of the nicest places to stay in Kasol, and rooms will set you back about 3000-4000 rupees, around 30-40 euros per night.

Safety, Concerns and Useful Information

• Grahan is a very remote village. Before starting the trek to Grahan you should be aware that if anything happens to you, the nearest help in Kasol is a few hours away. There are no roads for ambulances and police cars, and most of the trail has no phone reception or wifi.
• Make sure your friends and family know where you are going before you start the hike, and arrange to check in with them before leaving.
• Respect the locals. Grahan is a village where local families live and work in the mountains. Be respectful, and don’t go into any buildings or houses that you don’t have permission to. Stick to the trodden path at all times to avoid trespassing into locals farm land.
• Hotels and homestays cannot be booked in advance online in Grahan unlike Kasol, so do your research before arriving on where you want to stay. Once you arrive in Grahan just go into the homestay and ask for a room.
• Adversely, hotels in Kasol get booked up very quickly in advance. Plan your trip before you arrive and book your hotel now!
• When spending money abroad we use the WISE international debit card. You can withdraw up to 200 euros in cash per month free of charge. After that, you only pay a very low withdrawal fee.
• Travel insurance is a must for any extreme activities abroad, especially in Asia. Although problems rarely arise, you want to be covered in the case that they do. We use SafetyWing and recommend it for anyone travelling around the world.

What to do next?

There are a number of other popular treks in the area of Kasol. One is the Kheerganga Trek, further up the Parvati Valley. This trek offers natural hot springs, snow capped mountains and breathtaking vistas. You can do this trek as part of a group tour, including all accomodation and meals for the 2 day duration. Check availability for the Kheerganga Trek here.

For a similar trek to Grahan there is Rasol village. I trekked to Rasol village from Kasol back in May of 2023, and you can read the full write up here on the blog.